For the last few years IFF have asked its perfumers to use their creative talents to make perfumes with no creative or budget constraints. These were previously sold to the public under the name Speed Smelling Collection, but in 2016, they have been renamed as the Secret Smelling Collection.
these 11 magical, experimental scents have been created to specially showcase the secret tricks, materials and techniques that IFF’s masterful perfumers consider to be their secret weapons.
The Creators & Fragrances:
Nicolas Beaulieu: The traditional fougère gets a bold, space-age reinvigoration with the addition of an overdose of Cosmofruit, a bracingly tart new molecule born in the IFF labs which combines with the classic aromatic elements to completely recontextualize what a fougère can be.
Domitille Bertier: Inspired by the paintings of Claire Tabouret, this fragrance of change and maturation is anchored by natural, fiercely green galbanum and the woodsy/musky intensity of two IFF-created molecules, Ambertonic and AmberXtreme.
Alexis Dadier: Using IFF’s Living scent-capture technology, this fragrance presents a perfect snapshot of the crisp, bitter, gently woodsy citrus varietal known as Buddha’s Hand, touched with gentle incense and powered by rich doses of juniper, vetiver, and a musky Ambertonic backdrop.
Loc Dong: As a perfumer who values straightforward compositions and a commitment to purity, Loc Dong presents a fragrance built around a massive dose of natural ylang heart, floating on a sea of Aquaflora, a proprietary aldehyde with floral and marine elements. This is a classic floral given remarkable modern beauty.
Anne Flipo: A gorgeously bright combination of grapefruit and rose naturals given exotic depth with aromatic basil and a luscious spring-floral molecule known as Starfleur, this fragrance is evocative, feminine, and outright lovely.
Nelly Hachem-Ruiz: Inspired by Dali’s Mirage, Hachem-Ruiz’s “Myrrhage” uses an outstanding selection of woody, balsamic natural myrrh combined with an ozonic, fresh IFF molecule named Coolwood as a perfectly balanced composition atop which purple florals and fiery oriental spices create a sensuously surreal scent.
Jean-Christophe Hérault: A delectable gourmand inspired by the wonders of childhood, this mouthwatering chocolate-caramel delight hides a surprising sophistication realized from exceptional natural iris concrete, ambrette absolute and vetiver essence, as well as a richly ambered base of IFF’s Ambertonic.
Bruno Jovanovic: A hedonistic journey through India, this intoxicating fragrance serves an exotic cocktail built around Tropicalia, a new ingredient with a potent combination of fruity, floral and animalic aspects. Natural jasmine sambac absolute of the highest quality enchants and excites, while Operanide, a new molecule with woody, ambergris tonalities, extends depth.
Juliette Karagueuzoglou: The uniquely modern idea of a “detox juice” is translated to great olfactory effect in this scent built around a dazzling overdose of fresh ginger essence, paired with the proprietary Cristalfizz aldehyde. Coriander seed and tart apple complete the delightfully energetic fragrance, sure to uplift and refresh the spirit.
Sophie Labbé: Well-known to the British but perhaps nowhere else, pennyroyal is a rich aromatic plant once used to flavor Victorian-era sweets. This fragrance seizes pennyroyal’s unique character and combines it with a multitextured chest of fiery spices and warm, vegetal leather notes realized with Edenolide, an IFF captive molecule.
Dominique Ropion: Using IFF’s Living capture technology, Ropion here presents a perfect imprint of real, growing gardenia, supplemented with the bright, tart, sweet Cosmofruit molecule, for a dynamic case of modern-meets-classic. A revolutionary innovation that results in pure beauty.